‘Every Chef Should Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.